Rockfish

A genus of more than 70 species — black rockfish, yelloweye, copper, quillback, China — that share the same general profile: firm, mild, white-fleshed, with a slightly sweeter taste than cod. Often labeled (and mislabeled) as "Pacific snapper" at the counter. It is not a snapper.

Rockfish are jig-and-handline caught in shallow Alaskan waters, often as bycatch on halibut trips. The Alaska fishery is well-managed and certified sustainable; some West Coast stocks are still recovering from the overfishing of the 1980s and 90s, so origin matters. Look for "Alaska" or "Pacific Alaska" on the label, never "Pacific" alone.

Cook hot and fast. Pan-sear, broil, fry. The mild flavor takes assertive seasoning — Mediterranean herbs, harissa, lemon-garlic-butter — better than salmon or sablefish would.